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For many readers this may be the first opportunity they have had to read these articles as appeared in the Helensburgh and Gareloch Times, and also the Helensburgh Advertiser, so I thought that I would share the transcripts I made of these articles, and apologise in advance if the articles make anyone feel queasy.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, August 31, 1927
“Ardencaple Castle: brief account of its history”
In response to many requests we here describe the magnificent place where we are to hold what already promises to be a memorable Fete in the annals of our town, Helensburgh.
The “fort of Arncaple” or Ardencaple is redolent of remote and stirring history. The word Ardencaple is a Gaelic term signifying “the promontory of the mare,” and corresponds exactly with the situation of the estate. In those dim days of the past, long before men were troubled with fashionable clothes or even collar studs, this was an important strategic centre. In those “good old days,” when subscriptions were required, a gang simply sallied forth with clubs, and anyone daring to refuse donation was at once clinched; we have improved our methods in this respect since then, we still extract money, but as the dentist advertises, “without pain.”
But to our story. The first record of this castle appears in that miserable and tragic “Ragman Roll,” when the Scots paid rather an illusory homage to Edward I., the “Hammer of the Scots,” in 1296, which was amply wiped out later at Bannockburn. The chieftain who signed that document was called Maurice de Arncaple; he is credited with being the progenitor of the clan, M’Aulay of Ardencaple.
There is a lapse now in out historical records till we come to Alexander de Ardencaple, who served on the inquest of the Earl of Menteith in 1473 and later on that of Robert Fleming in 1493.
By the opening years of the sixteenth century, we have a clearer title who apparently had succeeded to the heritage. His grandson, Walter, established the surname M’Aulay, as we now know it, but he left no heirs, and his brother, John, carried on the direct line of the family. The name now assumes several modes of spelling, such as M’Cawley. The estates passed eventually to his grandson during that troublous period while Mary Queen of Scots reigned. After the abdication of that Queen at Langside, M’Aulay subscribed a Bond for carrying on the government under the name of the Prince James, who later became our James I of England. This Walter is thought to have laid the foundations of much of the castle we now see. His son distinguished himself in the service to the State and was created Sir Aulay M’Aulay. He was the recognised chieftain of the clan.
In his youth he had signed an alliance with the M’Gregors; the consequences of which were divulged at the affray of Glenfruin. The Clangregor were then a proscribed clan, and it is peculiar that they were able to obtain the help of such a family of “auld descent” as that of the M’Aulays. The only reason that we can ascribe to this unfortunate connection is that the M’Aulays were not on “speaking terms” with the Buchanans. Sir Walter Scott, in “Rob Roy,” gives, with his wonderful flair, a lucid account of the state of affairs in this district which ended in the “Raid of Glenfruin.” About the beginning of the seventeeth century the estates had come into possession of Aulay M’Aulay, who, by his extravagant habits, is said to have gambled away at play Ardencaple Castle in one night. His son, Archibald, was notorious in hunting down the Covenanters of this district. Despite his apparent loyalty to Episcopacy he was no admirer of the miserable Charles II., and backed up the cause of William of Orange with force. He parted with most of the family property and allowed the castle to fall into ruin. He was compelled to live at Faslane, and became landless, like so many other Highland Lairds then.
The fourth Duke of Argyll purchased the castle and bestowed it on his son, Lord Campbell, whose nephew made so many important additions to the ancient castle, indeed, making it very much as it stands to-day. There is still much mystery surrounding many features of the place with its underground passages to Rosneath and elsewhere. Nor much we overlook the stable courtyard with its clock and bells. There is an old song, “Bonnie Jeannie o’ Lagary,” the refrain of which is, “Ardencaple bells proclaim at ten hours to the weary.”
What scenes of gaiety, chivalry and even tragedy, for there are dungeons still there, these ancient walls must have witnessed? Kings James IV and V were frequent passers-by, not to mention the ever charming Mary Queen of Scots, who was fond of hunting in Dumbartonshire. The glories of the past may never actually be recovered, but its glamour still persists.
On September the tenth this historic and romantic place, by a happy thought of a descendant of these once great M’Aulays, will be thrown open to the public for a Garden Fete in aid of our Nurses. In doing this, Mrs M’Aulay Stromberg has followed the fine example of many other owners of historic and celebrated gardens, who have allowed the public to view them in aid of the same National Nursing Fund. The Duke of Rutland only recently opened Haddon Hall for such a good cause.
The opening of these grounds at Ardencaple not only benefits the cause in which the proprietrix is interested, but is a delight and an education to the people. Scotland is rich in lovely old policies, which breathe Highland Romance and, in a way, convey to our fretted minds the glorious memories of a long and ancient history. Mrs M’Aulay Stromberg has placed Helensburgh and district under a deep debt of gratitude for her hospitality.
Her patriotic action will not only benefit the cause of the Nurses, which we have all so much at heart, but will make us more than every realise the great and truly blessed heritage that we Scots enjoy.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, November 25, 1931
“Death of Mrs Macaulay-Stromberg, of Ardencaple Castle”
News has been received of the death, on Thursday last, at New Jersey, U.S.A., of Mrs Henrietta Macaulay-Stromberg, of Ardencaple Castle, Helensburgh. She had suffered from illness during the summer, and sailed for America in the Aquitania on November 5. Early in this year she met with a serious motor accident, in which she sustained a severe shock. Latterly she suffered from heart trouble.
Mrs Macaulay-Stromberg, who was born in London, acquired Ardencaple Castle in 1923, thus maintaining her family associations with the district. Her great-grandfather was minister at Cardross. She was twice married. Her first husband was Mr Frederick Parker. Mr Gustav Stromberg, her second husband, was a native of Sweden.
During the war Mrs Stromberg equipped a British field hospital unit. She was the author of a number of published poems. She had traveled extensively, and had fine artistic tastes. Her marked capabilities as an organiser were revealed in her war work and her efforts on behalf of deserving institutions. In September, 1927, Mrs Macaulay-Stromberg graciously placed the Castle grounds at the disposal of the Queen Alexandria Memorial Fund Committee for a Garden Fete to raise money for the training of Scottish nurses.
It was entirely due to Mrs Macaulay-Stromberg’s efforts that Ardencaple Castle was restored and preserved, many improvements being carried out under her instructions for the improvement of the fabric of the age-old building. The Castle stands on a solid rock which rises to a height of about twenty-five feet above the surrounding fields. There are traces of an ancient moat around the Castle and several defensive works, while an old grey wall surrounds the front and west of the castle buildings. Situated in its commanding position overlooking the Gareloch and the Clyde, the Castle presents a touch of medieval romance to the scene. In these days when such ancient homes are being abandoned, for economic reasons, it is good to think of the service Mrs Macaulay-Stromberg has done in preserving this fine example of an old Scottish castle.
Mrs Macaulay-Stromberg was always willing to answer the appeals of deserving institutions and organisations, and just a week before her death she gave a handsome contribution to the Duke of Atholl’s appeal on behalf of the Boy Scout’s Association. Her death is an irreparable loss to Helensburgh and district.
She leaves three daughters, four grandsons and four grand-daughters.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, November 27, 1940
“Ardincaple Castle and Its Lairds”
(Notes from a Book Review by the late Mr Robert Macaulay).
The Ghost of Ardincaple, it would appear, has given up his traditional midnight meanderings. No doubt, having found many serious and purposeful young people, wearing spectacles and varsity scarves and speaking in strange accents, now turning the ancestral home into an office, the Ghost feels that he cannot get a tap in edgeways, and anyhow, these folk would not understand.
Yet, as recently as 18th September 1928, Mr Edward Randolph Welles, author of “Ardincaple Castle and Its Lairds,” recorded in his diary:— “Bed at few minutes to eleven, but no sleep until after twelve— because of the ghost,” adding that “the footsteps and tapping were too clear and distinct to be an allusion.”
Mr Welles had the same experience on three evenings, and the tapping, which always was the same, stopped abruptly on the stroke of twelve. The series of taps was: 3, 5, 1, 3, 1, 3, 1.
Ghosts, as everyone knows, haunt only places such as have a history reaching back a couple of centuries. They are not likely to favour all-electric bungalows with a 16th century castle provides ample “lebensraum.”
Mr Welles history of Ardincaple Castle was published in 1930, and was limited to 250 copies. A review of the book by the late Mr Robert Macaulay, West Lodge, Dalmore, who was proud of his association with the once powerful Clan Macaulay, appeared in this newspaper. It is from Mr Macaulay’s scholarly review that the following notes are taken.
The First Laird.
The first recorded Laird of Ardincaple, it was stated, was Morice de Ardincaple (A.D. 1294). The origin of the Lairds of Ardincaple is uncertain, but in all likelihood they derive from the Earls of Lennox. Towards the end of the 13th century, Malcolm, Earl of Lennox, granted to Aulay of Fosselane (Faslane) the lands of Airddengappill and other lands on the Gare Loch. Several centuries intervened, however, before the Lairds of Ardincaple came to have a distinct Clan of their own.
In all probability, the first Laird of Ardincaple fought on the side of Sir William Wallace for Scottish independence. After Wallace had stormed the Castle of Dumbarton and sacked the town, he captured Rosneath Castle from the English and burnt it to the ground. The minstrel historian, “Blind Harry,” records a visit of Wallace to Faslane Castle, where his friend, Malcolm, Earl of Lennox, resided:—
Yan to Faslane ye worthy Scot yan pass,
Quhar Earl Malcolm was bydand at defence.
Right glad was he of Wallace gude presence.”
The Macaulay Clan.
According to Mr Welles, the Lairds of Ardincaple who followed Morice de Ardincaple were not conspicuous in the history of Scotland in the 14th and 15th centuries, but in the 16th century, with Alexander, the seventh Laird, the Ardincaples began to come into their own. In the years 1587 and 1594, it has been definitely proved, there was a Macaulay Clan with headquarters at Ardincaple Castle.
The eighth Laird, John de Ardincaple, a son of the seventh Laird, was first to employ the surname Makawlay. He died on the Field of Flodden fighting for Scotland.
The ninth Laird was Aulay Makawlay of Ardincaple, and generally appeared under the designation “Aulay Ardincaple of that ilk.” Two years after the Battle of Flodden he had sasine of Gartmoir (Gartmore), and, owing to an exemption granted to the heirs of all those who fell at Flodden, was exempted from the payment of relief duty.
Alexander, the tenth Laird, was the first to use consistently the surname M’Aulay, his two predecessors having occasionally employed Macaulay, Makawlay or M’Aulay. But the time of Alexander, the family of Ardincaple had become sufficiently powerful as a Clan to find a suitable Clan name, and the Clan became known more and more as the Macaulay Clan.
Walter, the eleventh Laird, did much to improve the Castle and estate of Ardincaple. The late Dr David Murray, of Moore Park, Cardross, wrote of Walter:— “He is said to have built the old castle of Ardincaple, and a stone bearing his arms impaled with those of his wife, which was formerly in the burying aisle in the Church of Row (Rhu), is now preserved in the Castle walls.”
Aulay M’Aulay.
The best-known of the Lairds was the twelfth, Sir Aulay M’Aulay, Knight, who succeeded his father in 1583. He it was whom the old rhyme described as:— “Aulay M’Aulay, Knight o’ Cairndhu, Provost o’ Dunbarton and Bailie o’ the Rhu.”
Aulay lived in stirring times, and over the hill from his ancestral abode where occurred one of the ghastliest of Clan battles, the massacre of the Colquhouns by the Macgregors in Glen Fruin, “The Glen of Sorrow,” a deed which led to the proscription of the dreaded Macgregors. In Scott’s “Lady of the Lake,” the Clan Alpine warriors sing:—
“Proudly our pibroch has thrill’d in Glen Fruin,
And Bannachra’s groans to our slogan replied;
Glen Luss and Ross-dhu, they are smoking in ruin,
And the best of Loch Lomond lie dead on her side;
Widow and Saxon maid
Long shall lament our raid,
Think of Clan Alpine with fear and with woe,
Lennox and Leven-Glen
Shake when they hear again
‘Roderigh Vich Alpine dhu, ho! Icroc!’”
Our First M.P.
In 1608 the Laird of Ardincaple represented the County of Dunbarton in Parliament, the first recorded Member for the County. In 1613 the Laird of Luss obtained from Sir Aulay M’Aulay of Ardincaple, Knight, “for certain sums of money, commodities, pleasures and benefits paid and done” by Colquhoun for Sir Aulay, a charter of the Island of Inchtavanach, one of the most beautiful islands in Loch Lomond. This isle was really in the domain of the Colquhouns, and it was a friendly as well as profitable action for M’Aulay to grant it to his neighbour, the Laird of Luss.
A New Parish Found.
During the lairdship of Walter, fourteenth Laird of Ardincaple, a new Parish was formed in the neighbourhood of Ardincaple. In 1639, the Presbytery of Dunbarton, with the sanction of the General Assembly, formed the Parish of Row (Rhu) in the lands belonging to “the Laird M’Caulay” (another variation of a name which had many different spellings). The lands included in the new Parish of Row were:— Ardincaple, Malligs, Kirkmichael, Stuckleekie, Ardenconnel, Laggarie, Letrault, Macaulay, Blairvattan, Stuckhoich, Blairnairn, and Drumfad. The fourteen Earl had therefore added considerably to the family estates between 1622 and 1639 by the foregoing lands with such picturesque names.
After the Battle of Kilsyth, 1645, the Laird of Ardincaple was granted certain favours from the great Marquis of Montrose, and in Scott’s “Legend of Montrose” there is a description of Ardincaple Castle (Darlinvarach Castle) and the M’Aulays, and a story about Allan M’Aulay, who, on account of a wager, had a Highlander behind each seat at dinner as a living chandelier, holding in his right hand a drawn sword, and in his left a blazing torch made of bog pine. “Behold,” said Allan, “the chandeliers of my brother’s house, the ancient fashion of our ancient name.”
Decline and Fall.
With Aulay, the fifteenth Laird, began the decay of the house of Ardincaple, owing to his extravagance, fast living and gambling, and thereafter the lands and houses of the great estate passed one by one out of the hands of the M’Aulays. Aulay was married twice, and Jane, a daughter by his first wife, married, in 1684, Sir James Smollett, and their son, Archibald, was the father of Tobias Smollett, author of “Roderick Random” and “Peregrine Pickle.”
During the “killing times” of the Covenanting period, “the bloody Laird of Ardincaple” hunted and harried the Covenanters. About the year 1700 the Laird of Ardincaple disposed of Milligs (upon which Helensburgh now stands), Kirkmichael, Buchanan and Drumfad, to Sir John Shaw of Greenock, who, in 1752 sold them to Sir James Colquhoun of Luss. On acquiring the Barony of Milligs, Sir James feued out the shore part of the villas, and called the new town after his wife Helen, daughter of the Duke of Sutherland.
In 1737, the Laird of Ardincaple parted with Ardenconnell, Faslane, Easter and Wester Blairnairn. Auley, the nineteenth and last of the Lairds, completed the disposal of the family estates. At that time the condition of the Castle made long residence in Ardincaple out of the question, and Aulay went into retirement at Laggarie, where he died in adject poverty in 1767.
The New Owners.
This Aulay, before he died, sold the Castle and the estates around it to John Campbell, fourth Duke of Argyll, and for some years the Castle was occupied by Ann Colquhoun, Dowager Duchess of Argyll. In 1862, Sir James Colquhoun purchased the Castle, and in 1923 it was sold to Mrs Macaulay Stromberg, “the best friend of Ardincaple Castle,” as Mr Welles described her. Under her care the fabric of the ancient Castle was restored. The new owner, who claimed descent from the M’Aulays of Ardincaple, did not hold it for very long. She died in 1931.
The Castle was unoccupied for a time, and it was hoped that the Helensburgh Town Council would purchase it, but they let the opportunity pass. It is now owned by Mr. J.D. Hendry, who has feued the fields in front of the Castle to make a housing estate of multi-coloured bungalows.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, August 8, 1956
“Ardencaple Castle Lodge,” a conspicuous landmark to the west of the town is now in process of being demolished.
Helensburgh and Gareloch Times, April 10, 1957
“Ardencaple Castle Demolition”
Helensburgh Town Council has been told by the Admiralty’s Civil Engineer in Chief that early demolition of Ardencaple Castle is under consideration.
In reply to an enquiry as to whether the Town Council was prepared to make a contribution towards the cost of preservation, the Town Council has stated that they cannot see their way to incur expense for that purpose. The rates are high enough without spending more on luxury or sentiment.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, April 17, 1957
“Spare our only historical building!”
One supposes that as a bureaucratic body with unlimited power, the Admiralty can do whatever they wish with Ardencaple Castle. And it could also be argued that since the Town Council has declined to contribute towards the retention of a part of the structure they have lost the right to say anything about the matter.
It is known, of course, that the Admiralty is superior to the local authority— above even the Town and County Planning Authority— and can do practically anything they wish without any great regard to communal amenity or interest. That is clearly evident today around the shores of the Gareloch and within the burgh where a new housing estate has been build by the Navy without any special consideration for architectural standards or siting.
Even if the current Defence economy campaign reduces the size of the unit stationed on the Gareloch, evidence of their stay here will not soon disappear, nor will it be readily forgotten, and the removal of the centuries old Castle of Ardencaple as a further demonstration of their handiwork would be an added and unnecessary reminder of their sojourn here, where it be long or short duration.
It seems rather strange— or does it— that a State Department should have bought an ancient building such as this without reckoning the ultimate cost. It is a note to observe that the wealthiest owner ever to possess the Castle, after its centuries of fluctuating fortunes, should contemplate razing it.
There should be no valid reason why, if the structure is sound— and obviously it is,— that demolition should be considered. No former owner, however hard pressed, ever had such a thought and yet the all-powerful British Navy, once their purpose has been served, is prepared to do away with it.
Demolition will probably mean the removal of roofs, towers, doors and windows and so much of the walls, the rest being left to stand as an inglorious ruin— an inheritance from the Admiralty.
Since the Castle belongs to the nation it is surely not impossible to have it transferred to another section or department, such as the Ancient Monuments Board, so that it could be preserved and maintained as it stands. It may not be sufficiently “ancient” in this century to qualify for adoption by that organisation, but this is something which time will cure. It will grow older as the centuries pass, but not if it is demolished.
It should not be sufficient for the Admiralty to say “We don’t need it any longer and Helensburgh folks won’t help to keep it standing so it can come down.” They owe much more than that to a community which has to live in a once beautiful countryside now, alas sadly desecrated by the inconsiderate “improvements” created by the Naval, and, to be quite fair, the Army and Air Force authorities.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, April 17, 1957
“Ardencaple Castle”
Some discussion took place at the District Council Meeting in Helensburgh last week over the possibility of Ardencaple Castle being demolished. The subject was raised by Miss Stephen who thought it would be unfortunate if this fine old building should be pulled down, and she would like to known if Ardencaple Castle was on the list of historical buildings compiled by the County Council some time ago.
The Chairman, Dr MacGregor, thought this was more a matter for the Burgh of Helensburgh than for them to consider, but Mr M’Kichan pointed out that this could easily be a repetition of what had happened with Shandon Hydro when demolition had been started without authority. “T think we could do a great deal to help the efforts to save Ardencaple Castle if we took action now by telling the County Council that this District Council is very much interested in the matter and enquiring as to what action the County Council is prepared to take about it.” It was agreed to take the matter up as proposed.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, April 24, 1957
“Public Opinion— Ardencaple Castle”
(To Editor, Helensburgh and Gareloch Times)
Sir,— It is surprising that none of the speakers at the District Council Meeting (nor does your otherwise excellent leader) make any proposal as to what future use could be made of this building; without such a proposal, retention is hopeless, and I would object to part of my income tax being used mainly to retain it as an ancient monument or only as a historical building. If Town, County or District Councils or indeed a small group of private individuals will formulate a useful future purpose for the building, they will find grants and contributions flowing in from all directions. Once has only to cite Menstrie Castle (“Glasgow Herald” of 13/3/57), where the interior is being adapted to provide dwelling houses, and Kilbarchan Steeple Buildings (“Glasgow Herald” of 8/4/57) which after adaption becomes a village hall. In both cases there was present a fine local spirit anxious to see that these historical buildings were put to good use.— Yours, etc. Anti-Demolition.
HELENSBURGH ADVERTISER, January 31, 1958
“Wanton Damage at Castle: Pick Used on Adam Fireplace”
Partly demolished Ardencaple Castle fell victim to final sack – by vandals— one of two lovely white marble Adam fireplaces “real collector’s pieces” was wantonly smashed by a pick-axe. “It happened just at a time when tenders were going out to dealers for the sale of a number of relics from the castle, which is being demolished,” said an Admiralty official.
The Admiralty used Ardencaple Castle as naval married quarters during the war. Since then the land upon which the castle stands and part of the surrounding area have been purchased by the Admiralty for development purposes— possibly the building for naval personnel.
Last April before demolition began the Admiralty offered to preserve the most historical parts of the building if any public body was willing to undertake the costs. It was thought that the oldest part of all— the West tower— might be kept for posterity.
“We wrote to all interested bodies,” said an Admiralty official last week. Offers to preserve this tower were sent to the Burgh of Helensburgh, Ancient Monuments Department of the Ministry of Works, County Council of Dumbarton and many others but no one was interested in keeping any part of the Castle. “We cannot commit the taxpayer to any expense for the purpose of preservation— that rests elsewhere,” said an Admiralty spokesman.
The Admiralty are still undecided where the entire structure will be demolished. Work is being carried out in such a way that the West Tower will probably be the last part to fall.
Outwith public bodies many private individuals have written the Admiralty on the subject of the intended destruction of the castle which dates back hundreds of years. But so far, no hand has stayed the demolition work on this old Castle which was occupied as far back as 1249.
Already the lime and stone of large parts of the Castle are being trodden underfoot and used for the foundation of a new road at Ardencaple.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, January 14, 1959
“Miscellaneous, Ardencaple Castle, Admiralty”
“A letter from the Department of Health for Scotland, dated 22nd December 1958, was submitted, along with copy letter from the Department to the County Clerk, Dumbarton, in connection with Ardencaple Castle, its proposed demolition and possible preservation of part thereof. It was agreed to take no further action.”
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, June 5, 1959
“Castle Tower Reprieve”
The North-West corner of the 14th Century Ardencaple Castle is to be preserved as a landmark when the rest of the building is demolished. The Tower will be renovated and the open space around it will be maintained by the local Parks Department.
Although the Scottish National Trust did not consider it of sufficient interest to take it under its wing, feeling is very strong about the matter in Helensburgh.
Provost Miss Janet R. Young said on Monday that it was the Town Council’s duty to preserve the Tower as an interesting historic landmark.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, June 10, 1959
“Ardencaple Castle Tower to be Retained”
Reported last week’s meeting of the Town Council that the Admiralty is in agreement with the Ministry of Works and the County Planning Authority had decided to renovate the North west tower of Ardencaple Castle and keep it standing as a landmark. This follows recent requests of the Town Council that this consideration might be given to preserving this particular part rather than demolish the whole of the building.
Provost Miss Young said she was very pleased it had been decided to keep a part of this historic 14th century building standing as a landmark and she felt sure the Town Council would be only too willing to see that the surrounding area was kept in an attractive state.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, July 24, 1959
“Sun Blacked Out by Cloud of Flying Fragments as… Ancient Castle Blows its Top”
Tower crumbles, Camera Clicks
With the thunderous roar of erupting dynamite, the highest tower of the once proud Ardencaple Castle explodes and crunches to a million pieces on the ground.
Modern high explosives had done, in a few seconds, what the cannon balls and battering rams of yore had failed to do in sex centuries.
When the main southern tower of the 14th Century-built home of the Clan MacAulay was blown up, only a few Admiralty workmen and a handful of residents nearby knew of the history-making event.
Reader Mrs A.J. French, of 25 Loch Drive, was one who witnessed the final dramatic moment of the round tower. Running from her garden, she picked up her camera and dashed outside again.
Her first picture, taken a few hundred yards from the castle, shows a workman laying the fatal fuse along the ancient battlements.
Her second— a brilliant piece of split second timing— tells its own story. The sun, glinting on the trees lining the steep walls of the castle, in momentarily blacked out by a thick cloud of flying fragments from the explosion.
The round tower— ever a scarred reminder of the romantic past— is no more.
Although the castle has now been reduced to a shell of its former greatness, it will not be completely demolished.
An agreement between the Admiralty and the local Town Council means that the part of the building, including the square northern tower on the left of the photograph, will remain standing as a historic landmark.
Historic note:—
Ardencaple was sold to the Fourth Duke of Argyll after the death of the last of the MacAulays in 1767. It passed into the hands of the Colquhouns of Luss in 1862.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, September 2, 1959
“A House of Distinction and Character: A New Feature of the Town’s West End”
New Ardencaple Lodge stands on site of former lodge, for residence of Mr and Mrs James D. Hendry, of Ardencaple, and who formerly resided at Wester Millig, Millig Street. Random rubble freestone of the lower wall and chimney was obtained from the demolished building.
HELENSBURGH AND GARELOCH TIMES, December 7, 1960
“A Park at Ardencaple Castle? Bailie says rates are high enough already”
When the Town Council was discussing the taking over and laying out of an area of ground around Ardencaple Castle, the Town Clerk, Mr Hendry, raised the question of ownership of the ground in question. “Does the Admiralty intend transferring it to the Town Council?” He asked.
Mr Hendry had pointed out the possibility of the Town Council liability involved in the event of anyone falling over the wall. “I think the 16 feet area is all that is necessary for us to take over (Urquhart) as a ‘try-on.’”
[Note: the above reference to “the 16 feet area” refers to the area at the base of the tower, effectively making the park only extending one-foot out from the four sides of the tower, and this is the size of the Town Council’s park as it was established in 1961. The rest of the site remained in ownership of the Admiralty].
HELENSBURGH ADVERTISER, 8th July 1983
“Hands off— That Tower is Our Heritage!”
Hopes to demolish one of the last standing historical buildings in Helensburgh may be stopped in their tracks.
Small silent steps have been taken towards the demolition of what remains of Ardencaple Castle, and both the Scottish Civic Trust and the Lennox Heritage Society have strongly opposed such a move.
But the MoD who own the building refused to comment on the situation this week. The Ministry already owns the tower of the castle, the last remaining part of the former mansion, and uses it for a submarine navigation beacon… but in the past year it has been trying to secure the way for the tower’s demolition and the siting of a modern navigation post in its place, according to the Scottish Civic Trust.
John Gerrard Assistant Director of the Civic Trust, said: “The MoD are thinking about it although no official application has yet been made, but as this is the last remaining tower of the Ardencaple Castle we would like to see it remain. The reason why we have been consulted about the matter is because the tower is featured in a book published by the SCT and the Property Service Agency, on historic buildings.
“But we are really waiting for more information on the tower— about how much it would cost to preserve. However as there has been no official application yet we have not officially objected. We have contacted the Lennox Heritage Society, though.”
Secretary of the Society Jo Samwell-Smith said: “We are totally opposed to the demolition. The tower is the last thing of any historical value in that area and we would hate to see it go. It is a listed building anyway.”
The MoD’s hush-hush proposal was discussed at the Society’s last committee meeting on June 20 and all objections made known to the Civic Trust and other interested organisations in a letter.
The castle which was built in the early 16th century has changed hands many times, eventually being opened to the public in 1927. But in July 1959 the Admiralty knocked down the then dangerous castle leaving only the main tower, and in the mid-1960s they installed their submarine guiding beacon. The tower which is now showing its great age is now mainly supported by scaffolding, but still holds several navigational lights.
HELENSBURGH ADVERTISER, 17th July 1964
“Helensburgh Clan Has Lost Its Chief: Nobody Wants Their Fairy Castle”
An American couple came to Helensburgh to see the ancestral home of their clan… and all they found was one solitary ancient tower that nobody wants.
For Mr and Mrs D.J. McAuliffe, an 8,000-mile pilgrimage ended on a rocky hillock above Kidston. The misty Scottish castle that had dreamed of back home in Jackson, Michigan, turned out to be no more than a gaunt tower – surrounded by modern bungalows and blocks of Naval houses occupied mostly by English families.
Searching for some consolation, the McAuliffes visited the County library and borrowed “Ardincaple Castle and its Lairds.” They read it and they wanted to keep it. But libraries have the rule that you can’t take it with you. The young couple tried to get a copy of their own in Helensburgh. Few people had either seen or even heard of the rare book.
The Macauley clan which once ruled lands stretching from Ardencaple to Porticaple is fallen and scattered. Even the chief is lost. No one today rightly knows who leads the Macaulays. No one bear the Arms of the Clan. Until the rightful heir is found the Lord Lyon has ordained that the Arms – a shield with crossed arrows supporting a helmet with the crest a spurred boot – must remain unused. And the Macaulay motto “Dulce Periculum” (sweet danger) has not been used to rally the clan for more than 200 years.
Even the last tower of the ancient castle which the American clans folk had come half-way round the world to see is wanted no more.
The Admiralty who own it want the local council to take it over. But the Town are not interested. The name Macaulay lost its Garelochside magic centuries ago. Only the scattered clansmen in distant lands remember its ancient glories. That is why the American McAuliffes sought this ancient book with all the tenacity of their Scottish forebears.
They even tried Foyle’s famous bookshop in London. But there too, they met disappointment. The manager of the rare books department himself happens to be married to a Macaulay from Helensburgh. He stated firmly that the book could not be obtained.
Back in Jackson, the young Americans have not given up hope. Mr McAuliffe wrote to Miss MacCready at the County Library, Levenford House, pleading for one of their copies. He pled, “A copy of ‘Ardincaple Castle and Its Lairds’ would be the most treasured possession of every member of our family.”
Yes, he got the spelling right. It is Ardincaple. A stranger from across the Atlantic can still tell us a thing or two about our Town. But the County’s books are NOT for sale— not even to the man who could be the lost chief of the Macaulays himself.
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